Friday, April 27, 2012

The War in Vietnam


As my time in Vietnam is coming to a close I feel strangled by sadness, happiness, and a sense of accomplishment. My sadness comes from leaving a country which I have grown a strong affection for. I feel happy for being able to reunite with Kristine and begin to the next stage of my life. My sense of accomplishment comes from my progress with the Vietnamese language and making numerous friends here both Vietnamese and Western.
The topic of the war in Vietnam was one that up until this point I have hesitated to mention because of the sensitivity of the issue. Before I came to Vietnam I expected to be confronted with bitterness and hostility from the people of this country who suffered greatly because of an unjust war. While I was studying Canada some of my Canadian friends used to tell me that when I’m abroad I should pretend to be Canadian because of Canada’s supposedly spotless foreign policy record. I think it is a bit much for Canadians to act like Canada is the beacon of peace and friendliness opposed to the bullying of the United States. I do give Canadians credit however for avoiding getting involved in the tragic wars in Vietnam and Iraq and they have led a relatively benign foreign policy in recent history.
Aside from being American I inherited three other citizenships from my parents’ European background so I could legitimately say that I am French, English or Swiss. I was born in America and I was raised in America. I owe most of what I have to the United States. I would never think of being ashamed of where I come from. I love America as my home but that doesn’t mean I agree with all of the policies the American government has undertaken throughout the years. It would be cowardly and disingenuous for me to pretend to be something I’m not just to avoid an awkward conversation.
It took me a long time to broach the subject of the war with the Vietnamese people I know. It was a subject that I didn’t try to avoid but I didn’t try to instigate any debates with local people. I quickly discovered that the bitterness and resentment that I expected to encounter just wasn’t here. I’m sure there are plenty of Vietnamese people that hate the United States but anti-Americanism is not fuming from the hot sidewalks.
One day I went with a Vietnamese friend of mine to her grandparents’ house. Her grandfather was a decorated veteran of what he called the American War. I didn’t have a good opportunity to really discuss with him because of the massive language barrier but I conveyed that I was American to him. He then pulled out his tobacco pipe and we shared a smoke which is a Vietnamese welcoming custom among men. This situation reminded me of a time when I was in Japan and having dinner with a Japanese friend of mine’s family in her hometown of Hiroshima. Her parents, aunt, cousins, and most importantly her grandmother were all there. At one point during the dinner her grandmother was trying to explain something to me that I just couldn’t understand. After some confusion her aunt came to my rescue and told me that she was trying to explain to me that when she was a child she witnessed the atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima. I immediately regretted this rescue as the entire family went silent and turned to me to say something. My Japanese at that point was quite poor but I don’t think even now I would know how to respond. I humbly said that it is very sad and unfortunate that she had to witness that. At no point did I feel an urge to apologize but I tried to convey my sympathy. Her family was pleased that I said something and quickly changed the subject to something more lighthearted. Her grandmother ended giving me and my Canadian friend a nice bottle of sake and some nice ornamental chopsticks. The whole experience was important for me.
As I did then, I still feel no desire to apologize to Vietnamese people for what happened during the war. The war, like the atomic bomb took place far before I was born and I have of course have no responsibility but the real reason why I wouldn’t apologize is that it feels completely disingenuous. I don’t think anybody here is waiting for an apology from me and it would mean nothing anyway. I don’t want to and cannot speak for all American people. We can discuss the war as equals and share sympathy and hopefully empathy.
I have made friends here with some younger Vietnamese guys and one guy I know is an officer in the military here. He’s a friendly guy and his English is good enough that we could discuss things like politics and history (my vocabulary in Vietnamese isn’t good enough to have an actual serious conversation). As with almost all Vietnamese people I’ve encountered he expressed his antipathy for China. This is a pretty neutral subject since I don’t have a lot good things to say about the current Chinese government and I can understand the grievances Vietnamese people have with the Chinese. I do frequently end up defending the Chinese however since I think we should be able to reconcile a violent history alongside a currently aggressive government with the fact Chinese people are people too. The average Chinese person wants the same thing that we all want.
I liked discussing with this guy because I could voice my honest opinion about the war. As people who know me in America, I am not a defender of the war and America’s involvement. I think you would be hard-pressed to find Americans who still think that that war made sense. My friend and I discussed the politics of the Cold War and that Vietnam was the unfortunate victim of those times. Vietnam which had been fighting almost a thousand years to become independent became an ideological battleground turning Vietnamese people against each other.
In one of my teenage classes I assigned an essay about the history of Vietnamese-Russian relations. I was interested in seeing what they would write. They didn’t write much about Russia but instead wrote mainly about the war. I think a lot of people assume that people over here are all brainwashed by anti-American propaganda but the essays I read impressed me. 14 year old Vietnamese students could write sophisticated essays in English about the containment strategy the United States had during the Cold War and the fear of the domino effect that would occur if Vietnam became a communist state. It made me think that when I was in high school I believe we only spent one day on the Vietnam War. The history we learned that one day wasn’t white washed but I can’t say we were pushed to really think about the war.
I remember meeting an American guy in Cambodia who served in the war and he was annoyed that Vietnamese people think that the war was between Vietnam and the USA when actually the Vietnamese were primarily fighting each other. I do agree with him that after World War 2 there was by no means a unanimous consensus among the Vietnamese for what direction they wanted their country to go. I am no historian and there are myriad books detailing this part of history but the impression I got was that independence was the first priority. The ideology of the independent government was still up in the air. The division of Vietnam was really a deal brokered between the USA, France, China, and the USSR. The Vietnamese did not have much say in this. I think that as more and more US troops and US money came into the South to bolster the government, the government’s lost more and more legitimacy. When you combine the ineffective and corrupt government of South Vietnam with the heavy-handed tactics of the US military it is easy to see how Vietnamese people could become disillusioned with what the US government was trying to accomplish. A military cannot construct a sustainable society. It is disheartening to me that a lot of the American politicians from the Vietnam War generation seem content to make the same mistakes in Afghanistan.
I also had the privilege of meeting a young woman that works for Vietnamese television. She is interested in bringing stories of victims of Agent Orange to light. Agent Orange is some nasty stuff and millions of people were affected by it. People are still affected by it today since once it is in your system it permanently alters your genes so it could cause your children to genetic deformities. I see people that seem to have deformities associated with Agent Orange on a somewhat regular basis. There also numerous US soldiers that were exposed to it and are still living with the harm it did to them. It is kind of absurd that the companies the manufacture this stuff still insist that there isn’t enough evidence to conclude that it is harmful to human beings. This didn’t stop the US government from discreetly compensating the American victims of it.
War is terrible and always will be. We can debate the reasons and situational circumstances for why wars start but there is no debate about the damage they cause. I understand that there are wars of necessity but we can still recognize the tragedy. I believe the war in Vietnam was a mistake and I think Lyndon Johnson was irresponsible or worse a coward for letting the things escalate the way they did. That being said, I don’t really like the government Vietnam has today. The government has to take strong steps to root out corruption and loosen its restrictions of freedom of expression. I think Ho Chi Minh was a great man and it is really unfortunate that we will never know what he would have done if he would have governed a unified Vietnam. Because of the war over a million of Vietnamese were needlessly killed alongside tens of thousands of Americans. We also shouldn’t forget the thousands of Laotian and Cambodian people that were killed. There also millions of other lives that have been permanently damaged, Vietnamese and American, both emotionally and physically. There is a reason why so many of the homeless people in the United States were veterans in the Vietnam War.
At the end of the day I feel like we have to reconcile this past with the bright future. The Vietnamese people I know are not interested in dwelling in the past. They are interested in blazing a new path for their country. When we look to the future we have to remember the past even if it is painful. We cannot overcome the mistakes of the past through voluntary amnesia. This reminds of a conversation I had recently with another Vietnamese guy I know. He told me:
“Vietnamese people will never forget about the war.” I replied to him:
Anh nghỉ người Việt Nam không nên quen về chiến tranh Hoa Kỳ và Ngươi Mỹ cũng không quen về chiến tranh Hoa Kỳ.
“I think that Vietnamese shouldn’t forget about the war and Americans also shouldn’t forget about it.”

Monday, April 23, 2012

The Tale of Kieu and Vietnamese Society


My mom has just returned to America after visiting me here in Vietnam. It was really good to see her and I’m glad I was able to show her how I’m living here. We went to Ha Long Bay which was very beautiful. I introduced her to most of my friends here, both Western and Vietnamese. We definitely ate well. My mom being here reminded me that I am only in Vietnam for another 2 weeks or so. Recently I have been meditating and reading about Vietnamese culture and history. I have been devoting a significant amount of time at reading the Tale of Kieu (the most famous piece of Vietnamese literature).
The Tale of Kieu is a long epic poem (~3,000 lines). I have finished reading an English translation and I have worked with some of my Vietnamese friends to decipher some of the Vietnamese. I plan on continuing to work on this until I leave. As important pieces of literature go, the Tale of Kieu is not so old. It was written in the early 19th century by a man named Nguyen Du. It is actually based on an older Chinese story but he rewrote and revamped the poetry. He also adjusted it to fit a Vietnamese context even if the story is actually set in China.
The Tale of Kieu has a very sad story. It’s about a young woman (Kieu) who is exceptionally beautiful and talented but has a terrible life. In the very beginning she meets her true love but while he is away she is forced to sell herself into prostitution because of a large debt her father supposedly owes to this unscrupulous man. The debt did not actually exist but she still had to sacrifice herself out of filial piety. After that she has numerous trials. She is coerced to marry a few other guys and basically oscillates between relative happiness to prostitution to economic depravity. She accurately describes herself as a flower aimlessly floating down a river. The story has a pretty improbable and I would say rather unconvincing happy ending.
I extracted two main themes of the story. 1. Beauty and talent can be a curse. In the prologue there’s this passage: Trời xanh quen thói má hồng đánh ghen. In English this passage’s meaning goes something like: Even Heaven is jealous of those with beauty. Kieu has such a hard life precisely because of her extraordinary beauty and artistic talent. I see this as a critique on the common desire among people to be beautiful, attractive, special in some way, etc. and also critical of those who live their lives envying those other beautiful or famous people. I see this as a very wise point to make and relevant to today’s society. 2. Nguyen Du also offers a subtle critique of the rigid Confucian society and culture. When Kieu is forced to sacrifice her youth for the sake of her father, her father is devastated and insists that she save herself. He even threatens to kill himself if she leaves. She however cannot do that because of filial piety (hieu) and her moral debt (on) to her parents. Vietnam like other Confucian societies has a strong culture surrounding the family. I believe the Vietnamese put a bit more emphasis on worshipping their ancestors than say the Japanese. Every Vietnamese house will have a small shrine to their family ancestors and people will regularly pray and give offerings. Children are taught that they owe absolutely everything to their parents and so families rarely split up if they don’t have to. There are of course more “modern” or Western ideas of family entering the psyche of some urban Vietnamese but I would say a vast majority of Vietnamese people still hold this part of the culture dear to their heart. In the context of Kieu her father realizes that it is crazy to sell her daughter to dangerous men while she is so young and has so much to live for. If he let himself be taken instead of Kieu then it would bring an immense amount of shame onto them and could have even completely destroyed the family altogether. Kieu is the martyr because the rigidity of the Confucian system’s focus on maintaining harmony within the hierarchy of the family. In the Confucian perspective a family cannot function without a father at the head.
The Tale of Kieu is known by all Vietnamese people and every student has to study at least a bit of it. I get the feeling that some Vietnamese people like to look at as a metaphorical narrative for their own history. Vietnam’s history has basically been a struggle for independence from foreign aggressors. The Chinese dominated them for nearly a thousand years. They were followed by the French, Japanese, French again and finally the United States. Vietnam being a small country surrounded by more powerful neighbors and thrown into the geopolitics of the Cold War era probably did seem like a flower floating aimlessly downstream; lacking the agency to control their own destiny. I also believe that the protagonist being a woman is important. Since Vietnam is a Confucian country like China, Korea, and Japan, it is a patriarchal society. Women generally have less access to higher level jobs and are taken less seriously but I feel like this is a reoccurring phenomenon around the globe. Women have only won somewhat equal rights recently around the world. In Asia, Southeast Asia seems to me to be one of the few areas of the world where the societies were somewhat matriarchal and women enjoyed more rights. I feel like this trend has rubbed off a bit in Vietnam and I think women in Vietnam are in a better position in terms of social mobility and respect than their contemporaries in Japan or Korea. But that is just my vague and generalized opinion based on observations.
I recommend that people read the Tale of Kieu and learn about Vietnamese culture. Vietnam is a small country but has a distinct culture and voice which should be taken seriously.